• Party in Milwaukee

    Summer is one long festival in this easygoing city on Lake Michigan.

    Once, I thought of Milwaukee as the ugly duckling of Midwest cities, a colorless runt with the grit of Chicago but none of its allure. Silly me. It’s true that downtown Milwaukee, during the day, is not exactly flashy.

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  • 10 great day trips around Milwaukee

    Ride trolleys, see lighthouses, spot birds and hike past mansions.

    Oak Leaf Trail, a 100-mile chain of paved paths, parkways and connecting streets. But the city also is surrounded by old Yankee mill towns and German settlements.

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  • Playtime in Milwaukee

    For children, this easygoing Wisconsin city is just the right size.

    There’s one city in the Midwest that never will get too big for its lederhosen. Milwaukee, sometimes called the biggest small town in America, doesn’t brag — though it should. It has a swell baseball stadium, a beloved art museum and a beautiful lakefront. Gemütlichkeit, the German term for congeniality and good life.

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  • Polish for a day

    At Milwaukee's lakefront festivals, visitors get a big helping of another culture.

    On a beautiful summer day in Milwaukee, history's underdogs were having a ball. They were listening to pianists play Chopin. They were dancing an exuberant style of polka. They were tucking into pierogi and paczki. Call it payback time for Poles.

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  • Bicycling along Lake Michigan

    Miles of trails in Milwaukee and on Ozaukee County's Interurban Trail provide non-stop scenery.

    We all know Milwaukee for its beer, bratwurst and oompah bands. But not many people know it’s also a great place for bicycling. Sure, there’s a constant stream of bicyclists on the lakefront stretch of the Oak Leaf Trail. From Lake Michigan, bicyclists can veer off onto a secluded stretch of the Milwaukee River or head toward Miller Park on the Hank Aaron Trail.

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  • Mad about brew

    In the town that worships beer, brewery tours draw legions of fans.

    For people who love beer, there’s no better place to drink it than in a brewery. In 1880s, beer-loving Milwaukee had more than 80 of them. Three became national giants, giving Milwaukee the nicknames Beer Town and Suds City, but only one survived. That’s Miller, acquired in 1969 by Philip Morris and now part of Molson Coors. Schlitz closed in 1981, and Pabst in 1997.

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  • On budget in a dorm

    In summer, college residence halls are a boon to budget travelers.

    Until recently, my memories of college dorms mostly involved sloppy drunks, sloppier roommates and a bathroom shared by the whole floor. Then my husband and I stayed at Marquette University in Milwaukee. It was as quiet as a cathedral, and we had a private bath and a panoramic view of the city from our 17th-floor picture windows.

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  • Milwaukee at Christmas

    During the holidays, this city shimmers like Cinderella.

    No one ever accused Milwaukee of being flashy. Best known for tractors, motorcycles and beer, it’s a meat-and-potatoes kind of town, stolid and practical like the Germans who built it. It’s not what you’d call a trendy destination. And yet every time I go there, I have a great time.

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